The team has now established camp one at 6000 meter after nine days of work in the ice fall. Tomorrow they will venture towards the final camp and the start of the actual accent of G3 and G4.
It has been a long lasting hard work as it has been snowing every afternoon for 12 days. The weather is although fine and everybody are fresh and well and is looking forward seeing the ice fall at the final approach. The team has been away five days and is expected back at base camp Tuesday morning.
Sunday, 14 June 2009
Saturday, 13 June 2009
Through the ice fall
Bruce, Don, Guy and Billy have left for a weeks walk up the glacier where they hope to reach the G3-4 cwm. Yesterday Friday, they reported via radio, from 5500 m, that they will try to find a way through the ice fall the next couple of days. The weather is nice with a light snowfall. Unfortunately David remains in base camp, trying to get well from his flu taking antibiotic.
Monday, 8 June 2009
Lots of snow
After arriving in BC on the 3rd of June we have only had one day without snow and the forecast for this week looks like it will bring us about 70 cm of more snow if we are unlucky. But the unstable weather has not stopped us from making trips up the Glacier and today Bruce, Guy, Billy and Don are making our 3rd trip up the Ice fall that leads to camp one on our approach to the cwm at 7000 meters.
Both our expedition goals are starting at the cwm situated between G4 and G3 at around 7000 meters so we have a complex approach in order just to get to the start of the climbing. We need to cover a long horizontal distance as well as about 1850 vertical meters in order to be at the cwm at 7000 meters. That is the same vertical distance as the North Face of Eiger. All of us are doing well except me, David, who is suffering from a sinus infection. But I hope I will be up and about in a day or two.
Photo Don Bowie
So far we are alone in Base Camp and almost alone in the Karakorum as far as expeditions are concerned but that will soon change. As of now we only know of a small team that is around the corner from us on Broad Peak. But in the next 10 days we expect to see several other teams arriving for attempts on G1 and G2 so the thin moraine strip that serves as BC will soon be quite crowded.
The changing weather is a bit frustrating but on the other hand it offers spectacular scenery and plenty of nice photo opportunities. The same mountains can look so different depending on light and snow conditions. Our BC is comfortable and well placed under the ice fall which we need to pass in order to get up on the mountain, so we can’t complain about that. I guess it’s the bonus of arriving first in the season. The nights are still quite cold and dinners are eaten with down jackets on. At night the avalanches on the surrounding peaks are comparable to trying to sleep at a train station but its quite nice to hear nature take its course and spectacular to look at.
Both our expedition goals are starting at the cwm situated between G4 and G3 at around 7000 meters so we have a complex approach in order just to get to the start of the climbing. We need to cover a long horizontal distance as well as about 1850 vertical meters in order to be at the cwm at 7000 meters. That is the same vertical distance as the North Face of Eiger. All of us are doing well except me, David, who is suffering from a sinus infection. But I hope I will be up and about in a day or two.
Photo Don Bowie
So far we are alone in Base Camp and almost alone in the Karakorum as far as expeditions are concerned but that will soon change. As of now we only know of a small team that is around the corner from us on Broad Peak. But in the next 10 days we expect to see several other teams arriving for attempts on G1 and G2 so the thin moraine strip that serves as BC will soon be quite crowded.
The changing weather is a bit frustrating but on the other hand it offers spectacular scenery and plenty of nice photo opportunities. The same mountains can look so different depending on light and snow conditions. Our BC is comfortable and well placed under the ice fall which we need to pass in order to get up on the mountain, so we can’t complain about that. I guess it’s the bonus of arriving first in the season. The nights are still quite cold and dinners are eaten with down jackets on. At night the avalanches on the surrounding peaks are comparable to trying to sleep at a train station but its quite nice to hear nature take its course and spectacular to look at.
Wednesday, 3 June 2009
Base camp
A quick report, more will follow. We have finally arrived at base camp just above 5 000 meters. Everyone is feeling fine and excited!
Thursday, 28 May 2009
Almost like vacation!
On our way to Askole by Jeep, we were held up a day due to a landslide. Parts of the road had been washed out and needed to be rebuilt before we could continue. This is normal for the season - it is still spring up here in the north east of Pakistan and very warm. So warm that for a minute you think you are on some sort of holiday. This feeling intensifies when we stop for meals and are invited into the main tent where our absolutely amazing chef Imran has prepared the most delicious dishes!
We have 90 carriers, each carrying 25 kilos. They do a great job in their plastic sandals. Makes us feel a bit stupid with real shoes and light back pack…
We have 90 carriers, each carrying 25 kilos. They do a great job in their plastic sandals. Makes us feel a bit stupid with real shoes and light back pack…
Wednesday, 27 May 2009
Nanga Parbat from the air...
The adventure has begun! We caught a first glimpse of what is ahead of us when flying past Nanga Parbat on our way from Islamabad to Askole. What a stunning and beautiful mountain!
We have now put on our trekking shoes and left Askole for a week’s march. We estimate to reach the Base Camp on 5 200 meter June the 2nd. Everyone is feeling great and so far things are working as planned.
We have now put on our trekking shoes and left Askole for a week’s march. We estimate to reach the Base Camp on 5 200 meter June the 2nd. Everyone is feeling great and so far things are working as planned.
Wednesday, 20 May 2009
The G3 and G4 Team
Our Expedition Leader is Bruce Normand (Scotland) a research physicist (PhD from MIT) with some 20 years’ of climbing experience. Bruce have lead expedition in Nepal, Pakistan, India, Tibet, China, Patagonia, Peru, Alaska, …In 2007 Bruce climbed K2 and he has over 20 first ascents in every corner of the Trans-Himalaya.
Don Bowie (Canada) is responsible for medical and safetyand he is a Qualified EMT and SAR expert. Don is a large wildlife research assistant with18 years’ climbing experience. Don has expedition experience in Alaska, Baffin Island, Peru, Nepal, Pakistan, … including summiting K2 in 2007. This expedition is the second this year for Don to Karakorum who is fresh from a winter attempt on Broad Peak.
Billy Pierson (USA) is going to record the expedition : Billy is an award winning producer and cameraman with 32 years’ climbing experience. Billy has climbed in Alaska, Nepal, Pakistan, Patagonia, … including summiting K2 in 2000
Guy McKinnon (NZ) is a Museum guide with 16 years’ climbing experience and one of New Zealand’s foremost solo alpine climber in rock and ice. Guy has expedition experience in China.
David Fält (SWEDEN) was part of his first Himalayan expedition at 18. At 21 he was the expedition leader to the unclimbed HunzaPeak (6270m) in Pakistan. David started climbing in 1987 and he has climbed some of the hardest winter routes in the Alps.
Don Bowie (Canada) is responsible for medical and safetyand he is a Qualified EMT and SAR expert. Don is a large wildlife research assistant with18 years’ climbing experience. Don has expedition experience in Alaska, Baffin Island, Peru, Nepal, Pakistan, … including summiting K2 in 2007. This expedition is the second this year for Don to Karakorum who is fresh from a winter attempt on Broad Peak.
Billy Pierson (USA) is going to record the expedition : Billy is an award winning producer and cameraman with 32 years’ climbing experience. Billy has climbed in Alaska, Nepal, Pakistan, Patagonia, … including summiting K2 in 2000
Guy McKinnon (NZ) is a Museum guide with 16 years’ climbing experience and one of New Zealand’s foremost solo alpine climber in rock and ice. Guy has expedition experience in China.
David Fält (SWEDEN) was part of his first Himalayan expedition at 18. At 21 he was the expedition leader to the unclimbed HunzaPeak (6270m) in Pakistan. David started climbing in 1987 and he has climbed some of the hardest winter routes in the Alps.
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